Five Best Bites from the Farmers Market

Now in its 27th year, the Marin Farmers Market at San Rafael's Civic Center parking lot every Thursday and Sunday is Marin's long-running gathering of tasty, organic ediblies. Recently, though, an increasing number of hot food vendors have pulled up their trucks and carts next to the bounty of crops, crafts, and artisanal offerings.

"Within the last two years, I've seen the Sunday market morph into a place where people come for lunch," said a volunteer working the food booth for the Marin Agriculture Institute, the nonprofit that admisisters the market.

While many of the stands provide a range of free samples, there are now 25 to 30 more choices for a gourmet, cooked meal. Here are five of our favorites:

Avi-ously Delicious Catering

If the makers of Middle Eastern pita sandwiches had to go mano mano in a World Cup competition, I would bet on our own Avi Cohen — Novato resident for 20 years —against Tel Aviv's or New York City's finest. He said the secret to his falafel sandwich are the spices in the hummus, including cumin, coriander, chili pepper, and sumac. I say it's all that plus the dill pickles and the tehina. Be sure to wash it down with sweetened iced tea steeped in spearmint leaves.

Waffle Mania—The Belgian Waffle Truck

There are times when it's best to start your day with a sugar rush of whipped cream and Nutella spread over a thick crunchy waffle with generously large holes. For the young, the young at heart, and those not on a diet. Hot on the inside, crusty on the outside with a sweet, almost caramelized layer of sugar. It provides a thrill of decadence for people of a certain age.

Brittany Crêpes & Galettes

Who knew that crêpes are -- by definition -- sweet and made with all-purpose flour and galettes are savory and made with buckwheat batter? Owner Laurent Le Barbier explains the details of this French treat as he makes a galette with melted Brie, Pesto, and fresh tomatoes. Compared to the waffle, as a breakfast choice, the galettes are downright sensible.

Thai Kettle

Their Pad Thai was tempting but I went with the Lahp gai, the daily special featuring a chicken salad with ground sticky rice, white meat chicken, carrots, mint, red onion, chili pepper, brown sugar and lime sauce. Warning: They say you have a choice between mild and spicy. But really the choice is better spicy and oh-my-god-that's-hot!

Local Eden

For weeks I'd been eyeing the Brisket BBQ slider with beef from Marin Sun Farm. They have some stiff competition now that nearby Roadside BBQ in Northgate Mall offers brisket sandwiches. But I'll give the gold medal to the Napa-based Local Eden. Their brisket is braised overnight in red wine and homemade BBQ sauce and served with wild arugula, pickled shallots, aioli on a pan de mie French bun. Avoids being goopy while delivering on meaty and delicious.

And a Bonus Pick:

Aidells Sausage Company

To call this a hot dog stand is like calling Canter's Fairfax Restaurant in Los Angeles just another deli. Seventeen years ago, Kathleen deWilbur was the first hot-food vendor at this farmer's market, selling Bruce Aidell's gourmet sausages to a hungry lunchtime crowd. I can't quit the chicken-apple sausage on a rosemary bun, but every week, she brings an assortment of sausages, including Cajun style andouille and maple and smoked bacon.