Whipper Snapper Chef Shows How To Make Fish Tacos

Whipper Snapper, a lively and casual “Cal Caribe” restaurant on San Rafael’s west end,  specializes in Latin flavors and Sangria. Entrees such as Zarzuella and Jamaican Jerk Chicken, or tapas like  Cuban "cigars" and fried plantains are dubbed "vibrating vittles" on the menu. With colorful walls and festive décor, it feels like a tropical oasis on Fourth Street. On most weekends, there is also live music.

At age 13, chef  and owner Bill Higgins started in the business washing pots and pans in upstate New York. By 17, he was head chef at a gourmet restaurant where they served such specialties as chateaubriand and Steak Diane. 

Moving to San Francisco at 22, he worked at the St. Tropez and then at Masa’s, with the incomparable Masa Kobayashi until his death two years later.  “It was Masa,” Higgins said, “who taught me about sauces and discipline in the kitchen.” 

After a stint in Los Angeles with Joachim Splichal at what is now Patina Restaurant Group and also at the formal L’Orangerie, Higgins opened The Peabody in Orlando, Florida. Higgins gave the gulf coast six years, and then he and the family were drawn back to California and settled in the Napa Valley. 

Higgins became executive chef at Cha Cha Cha in San Francisco and partnered in their second place. A Fairfax resident, he had been looking for a nearby location for his own spot, and found it in San Rafael.

Whipper Snapper opened Nov. 15, 2009. Besides serving organic food at reasonable prices, the restaurant is a certified green business.   Co-owner, Debra McKnight Higgins, who has been Bill’s partner in life and work for 23 years, handles marketing and finances for Whipper Snapper.

“Our intention was to create a warm, comfortable place where people can relax, have fun, meet their friends and neighbors and have a sense of community, while at the same time enjoying Bill’s wonderful food,” she said.

The whimsical Caribbean and fish themed recycled artwork is by artist in residence Patrick Maloney who had worked with kids in San Rafael’s canal district. The sconces on the bright blue wall look like an abstract of something you might find underwater. On the back patio, the “fishing boy” mural is made of broken pieces of dishes from his wife’s cabinet. “I save things,” he deadpanned. 

“Bill likes to have fun and that energy really comes through," Debra said. "We had a great time putting it together and it is fun to see how much our customers love the space, both indoors and out on the back patio."

Valentine's Dinner

An “Aphrodisiac Love Menu” served on Valentine’s Day features a course of ginseng sorbet, pepper crusted medallions of beef, polenta hearts, and flourless chocolate torte with raspberry sauce.  The regular menu will also be available.   

"Bill puts his heart and soul into every bite, every employee, the lighting and the music, everything you see, hear, taste, smell and touch,” Debra said.

San Rafael has noticed. 

Whip Snap Fish Tacos – Serves 6 (watch video to see how to prepare)

6 - 3 ounce filets of local rock cod

1 tablespoon spice mix (see below)

2 tablespoons canola oil

12 4 inch corn tortillas

1/2  onion finely chopped

1/3 bunch cilantro finely chopped

2 avocados sliced 1/2 inch thick

1 cup spicy mayonnaise or home made aioli – add chipotle chiles in adobo or cayenne

2 lemons for garnish- cut into wedges

2 limes for garnish– cut into wedges

Cabbage Slaw

1/2 red cabbage – sliced very thin

1/2 green cabbage – sliced very thin

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

 Rub fish with 1 tablespoon of spice mix and marinate in 2 tablespoons canola oil.

(Proportions are secret but mix is onion powder, garlic powder, cayenne, paprika) for at least an hour before cooking.

 Mix cabbage with balsamic vinegar.  

Lightly grill or pan fry the fish filets on both sides.  

Warm the tortillas and place on serving platter. (Use two per fish filet.)   

Mound cabbage on top of tortillas. 

Place fish on top of cabbage and sprinkle with onion and cilantro. 

Top each fish filet with slice of avocado and drizzle with spicy mayonnaise or aioli. 

Serve with pitcher of Sangria – either red or white wine with mix of fresh fruit from the farmer’s market.

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